Welcome to My Community of Nikolaevsk

Nikolaevsk is a unique Russian Orthodox community situated inland fifteen miles, as the moose wades, southeast of Anchor Point, Alaska. The small community of four hundred and fifty people sits nestled eleven hundred feet above sea level among the hills. Two of four semi-active volcanoes can be seen when weather permits, as well as the Northern Lights during the winter months.

Wildlife

An abundance of wildlife wanders through the village during different times of the year. Moose are quite numerous during winter months and well into break-up time. They stroll through helping themselves to berry bushes and willow branches. Pheasants, lynx, black bear in the summer, wolves, foxes, spruce grouse, domesticated cows and of course, the many, many domesticated house cats that Russians keep. Bald and Golden Eagles soar high overhead as well as hawks, owls, ravens, crows, and a variety of birds so varied that it would take more space then allowed to name them all.

History and Culture

Five Russian families seeking religious freedom settled Nikolaevsk in the summer of 1968. There are now three sects represented: the Russian Orthodox, the Old Right Believers and Old Believers. When ancestors of the five families fled Russia nearly four hundred years ago, some of them settled in Northern China near Mongolia, and there they lived for well over three hundred years. A faction developed within the group and another split took place. Some of the members, less than one hundred years ago, traveled to Brazil and set up several Russian Orthodox communities and from there, some traveled into Oregon.

Most of the Russian spoken in the village is so archaic that visiting Russians are unable to understand it. The language has been passed from generation to generation in its true form from four hundred years ago.

Several different sects reside in Nikolaevsk. Some of them are the Monkey clan, the Turkey Clan and the Fish clan. The Monkey clan is the descendants of the group that had fled to China, the Turkey clan's ancestors are from Turkey and the Fish clan from Russia. Many of these clans used to wear clothing that would identify their clans. Some of the women from the Fish clans still wear brightly colored dresses that reminds one of gypsies with the long flowing shirts and beautiful scarves.

All females from birth until death wear dresses. When they marry they cover their hair and wear scarves to do so. Both sexes, from the earliest age possible, wear handmade cloth belts around their waists for it is believed that the belts keep evil from them. The Monkey clan wears the belt tied in the back and the ends hanging down, thus the term Monkey tail that refers to the belt and the clan.

Males, from the time they have body hair, are not allowed to have anything made of metal touch their bodies, and some of the older men, elders in the village, have long flowing beards that drop past their belts. No body hair is to be cut; though the men do trim their hair and beard but not by using metal instruments. The women do not cut their hair and is considered a sin to do so. The women stay covered as to be humble in the face of God and man.

The Russian families are large and often have from seven to thirteen children per family. Since over 97% of them are related, many seek wives from Brazil, Oregon or other settlements. They trace seven generations back before marriage is considered safe.

Marriage celebrations may take as long three days. Marriage also takes place in-between fasts as everything is forbidden during a fast, including a wedding night. The average age of the girl is usually fourteen and the groom can range in age from fifteen to thirty years old.

Males who are not married do not have an opinion within the community. They are encouraged to live at home until they can afford to get married. After marriage, the husband has gained status within the community and is now able to express his opinions on matters.

Though tourists and tour buses come through during the summer, Nikolaevsk is a closed community with only 3% living in the Nikolaevsk proper being non-Orthodox. However, this is going through a change as the commercial fishing is dying out and the residents are realizing their livelihood is about to end unless the fishing improves. This is not likely to happen.

Fishing is the primary source of income and Nikolaevsk does have a boat building business where at least two boats a year are sold.

Climate

Climate in the hills can vary but during the winter, the storms can be fierce. High winds, sometimes of gale force, whip through with such fury that giant spruce trees bend almost to the ground. Nikolaevsk usually receives snow one to two weeks before Homer and other towns do in lower elevations. Winter temps range from 14 degrees to �25 below; summer temperatures vary from a cool 45 degrees to a very hot 73 degrees. In fact, any summer temperature over 75 degrees is considered too hot for comfort.

The Future

Nikolaevsk is a developing community trying to pull itself out of a possible future economic disaster. A new water treatment building, water storage tank high in the hills, water mains which include fire hydrants every block and household water service lines to forty-nine homes. All homes are on private septic tanks. Most of the homes are fully plumbed but some still have outdoor facilities and old wooden crib septic. The small Nikolaevsk School was hooked up to the water system this year.

A Nikolaevsk Community Council oversees the running of the small village and makes decisions for the community. At this time, Nikolaevsk is negotiating with Anchor Point Fire Department to obtain, on loan, a tanker fire truck and provide firefighters training. At this time, Nikolaevsk has no fire station and the nearest fire station is miles away.

A group of women have formed a committee and are now in the process of forming a Co-operative of handmade Russians gifts such as beautiful needlepoint, hook point, and various other Russian gifts. This will be a first for this community.

One of the plans for long-term development is to have a museum and gift shop as one enters the village. All non-resident vehicle traffic will not be able to drive through the village, but walking tours will be encouraged. For those who are handicapped, residents will try to provide some type of transportation . Discussion is taking place for the building of a possible boardwalk. As it is in the present, tour buses travel through this small hill community during the summer, invading the church and church grounds with cameras. There have been instances where church worship has been interrupted. By introducing a walking tour in a few years, Nikolaevsk is hopeful that some destructiveness by tourists will be eliminated.

Recreation

A thirty minute trip will bring the avid fisherperson to other areas of spectacular fishing such as Deep Creek and the world famous Ninilchik and Nikiski. Of course, there is nothing like a chartered fishing trip out of Homer that takes the fisherperson to a massive blue-iced glacier to spend the day with the reel and rod.

Other Neat Stuff

There is one road into Nikolaevsk. It has an approximate 27% grade and crosses over the North Fork river. Travel in the winter can be scary. There have been occasions when the only way out of the village was by snowmachine. However, this is rare. Everyone takes a chance and closing their eyes, zoom down The Hill and then up.

Behind Nikolaevsk, two other, smaller, villages exist. They are fully closed communities who do not encourage non-Orthodox or non-Russians to purchase land.

Other individuals live around Nikolaevsk and rumor has it that many are Vietnam Vets with bad attitudes and many dogs. Visitors are encouraged to avoid the back dirt road.

Life in this community is never dull. With three separate Orthodox belief systems, the Russian Orthodox, the Russian Old Right Orthodox and the Old Russian Orthodox, the priestless and the priested and the varying clans represented, everyday life can be an adventure.

Many people here are self-sufficient. Gardens for canning, berries for jams and jelly making, moose, caribou, and an occasional stray goat, will all find its way into the freezers. All the houses, except for around 3%, have outdoor smokers where fish and fowl are smoked to perfection.

Many raise turkeys, chickens, cows, geese, rabbits and pigeons for food and dairy products.

No Russian Orthodox families have dogs as they are considered to be unclean. The Russian Orthodox families who have tried to maintain a dog usually keep the animal for no longer than several weeks. They do keep and encourage the breeding of cats.

And In Closing

Living in Nikolaevsk is a paradox. Old and new methods living together. Some homes, such as the Old Right Believers, do not allow television or VCRs, or going to the theater. Some have television and other modern conviences, yet do not allow music to accompany dancing. A person who keeps their hands in their pockets when talking to someone is considered rude, while staring at a Russian male is considered an invitation to fight. New trucks and boats while many houses do not have foundations and a few with no modern plumbing.

However, there is no place like home, and home is Nikolaevsk for four hundred and fifty of us.

NOTE: National Geographic Magazine, in its September 1972 issue, did a wonderful layout about Nikolaevsk. Copies of the issue may be found at your local library.

Below are some links around the pages. I hope you enjoyed your visit. Come back soon.

Thanks to Matushka P. for additional information.

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